MCFW: SIMONGAO FALL / WINTER 2014

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‘I want to bring some elements of civilization inheritance into the modern technological life,’ asserted Simon Gao, who was ‘ trying to express a different sort of urban style‘ via his fall/winter 2014 collection. And with stirring beats and drums performed by live band Pet Conspiracy, the show also slightly featured a tone of belligerent enthusiasm.

Designer Gao’s collection was in shades of white, grey, black, and dark goldenrod with touches of embroideries and jacquards. Leather in the first few looks was well executed by approaches of pleating, matching fur sleeves, and even with small circular twists embossed. The shoulder lines of coats continued into sleeves creating a slouchy, deconstructed silhouette that felt kimono-inspired but quite current. Sneakers, according to Gao, was a taking point of the collection that ‘helped women discover their internal charm’, as well as ‘extending an easy, exhilarating, and comfy attitude towards life and aesthetics.’ I personally had a special craving for the waist belts worn over the coats that dominated the proportion of the collection. They added an extra hint of masculinity which was flattering and like a bit flirty.

 Last but not least, I’ve also covered some backstage scenes in the case that you might be interested. Click through the slide shows and catch a sneak of them!

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MCFW: BEAUTY BERRY FALL/WINTER 2014

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Back to the runway of Beauty Berry Fall/Winter 2014 collection, the color palette majorly consisting of school bus yellow, dark grey, and luminous red had that modernized feel of something bold, exhilarating, and graphic. Panda prints and jacquards dominated in pullover, jacket, and even blazer shapes which extended a soaring percentage of sartorial hilariousness. Many of the tailored coats seemed built for speed with rounded shoulders and aerodynamic construction, while the cutting was quite clean, soft, and minimal. Gowns were also seen extensively through the collection.Without even a seductive touch of over-exaggeration, however, they were well put together with a dedicated focus on draping and a twist of three dimensional structure. Anyway, the next time you gonna sport your Mickey Mouse pullover, go panda.

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MCFW: BANXIAOXUE FALL/WINTER 2014

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Designer Ben told us To Follow the Nature with Heart as written on the show invitation, which meanwhile served as the theme of his Fall/Winter 2014 collection. And what caught my eyes at first sight when I entered the tent, was surreptitiously exuding a hint of what was in conjunction with those few words. With lines of soil cover with moss paving through the runway, the interior was dominated by a touch of  rough nature.

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The embroidered organza dress and matching hippie floppy hatgears (which slightly reminded me of the Buffalo hat by Vivienne Westwood) that started the show were so effortless and unintentional, followed by a pyramid of monochrome ensembles that highlighted natural draping and cut-out details. More sophistication was added with the appearance of fringes. They were put together with asymmetric midi skirts, sandwiched between dresses and underneath skirts as a layer, and even hemmed on a trans-coded waistcoat to  give out a modernized reinterpretation of the nature. Silk, according to designer Ben, was the dominant fabric of the collection. Rather than maintain the smoothness or sheerness of silk, however, more experimental approaches were given to fabric innovation, such as the silk cut-out swing coat compounded with wisps of wool textiles, and a silk maxi dress patched with three dimensional origami panels made of wool fabric. There was a moment that impressed me most, when a model was sporting a red chunky knit dress mingling in a black flowing organza cloak that bombarded the audience with ever elegant fluidity of movement.

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Ultimately, the show was a lofty celebration of techniques and fabrics that ran loftily understated. Designer Ben insisted on his very own aesthetics as well as cognition of being a designer, and put together a show that blended garments into an integral part of nature. From my own perspectives, it was a loyal salute to nature meanwhile being manifestly personal and emotional.
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MCFW: SIMON GAO SPRING/SUMMER 2014

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Simon Gao‘s show is seemingly an interactive dialogue between masculine and feminine. Mannish or womanly, the collection precisely gives off a fair bit of modern edge from which we can fetch the innovative and refreshing ideas. Plus, in the light of what they call, the lingua franca in fashion, Gao conceives a message of his own interpretation of elaboration, creativity, and somewhat a sort of quirky luxe. There must be something related to multiculturalism throughout the collection, for as far as I acknowledge, the keen insight of Eastern philosophy, along with western tailoring, has far more transcended its stereotype. What’s more, the combo of modern art and futurism just adds another edge to the whole collection.

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Besides the innovation of fabrics, we’re thrilled to spot the new, or somewhat quirky ideas of styling. From a ground-length pleated sheer skirt to the structured maxi dress which contains a cut-out detail on the back, or just take a look at that minimal waistcoat and the satin-alike bomber jacket. Yeh, and don’t ever dismiss those chunky clunky Buddhism-inspired shoes! These are the killer pieces we’d love to go for in the next season. It might sound weird to match all of these pieces together. Still, from a wearing point of view, however,  with the flexible change of proportion, it shows otherwise. The ovations are constantly high for this collection, and frankly speaking, we are curious to discover what Simon’s next move will do to his design.

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ph: Judas Lee | chinafashionweek.org

edit : Judas Lee